I learned on engines that you could fix with basic tools and common sense.
Saying no risks our friendship, but saying yes risks his life.
I used to assume bilge pumps were working if they looked okay. Last season, I made it a habit to test every single one. Sure enough, I found three that were dead and fixed them before any damage happened. Do you guys always test pumps as part of your routine? I'm curious how you handle it.
I was servicing a Volvo Penta D6 and used the old guide for the coolant flush. The new way has a different order that nearly led to an overheat issue. What's the best way to get alerts when manuals change?
I was replacing seals on an inboard motor, hunched over for hours. The next morning, I could barely turn my head. It took physical therapy to get back to normal. Let's all remember to take micro-breaks and maintain good form. Your body will thank you later.
Had a guy at the marina grill me about his engine misfire while I was grabbing a coffee. He didn't even bring the manual or tell me the model year, so how am I supposed to help?
Last week, I dealt with a persistent leak from a thru-hull fitting on a client's sailboat. One school of thought insists on using paste sealants applied liberally before assembly, arguing they fill gaps better over time. The other camp swears by liquid anaerobic compounds, claiming they cure more uniformly and resist vibration. I've seen paste hold up for years in static applications, but liquid formulas saved me on a high-speed runabout last season. Now I'm facing the same issue and can't decide which method to trust. What's your take on this sealant showdown? Have you had similar experiences where one technique clearly outperformed the other?