Switched from handheld meter to incident readings for street portraits and it clicked after 6 rolls

I used to just meter off the sky or a grey card for outdoor shots, but mid-tones kept getting blown out on Tri-X. About 3 months ago I picked up a used Sekonic L-308 for $45 and started taking incident readings right at the subject's face. Now I adjust for backlight by opening up 1.5 stops and my shadows actually have detail instead of being a black hole. Anyone else find incident metering fixed a specific problem you fought for ages?

2 comments

2 Comments

paulb981mo agoMost Upvoted

Tried that with my Mamiya and ended up overexposing everything because I forgot to account for my own shadow blocking the light.

paul2331mo ago

Your own shadow blocking the light" - wait what lol. That's a whole new level of forgetting something on a shoot.